Glögg - THE winter drink in Sweden
From The Olde Cookery Book
| Glögg - THE winter drink in Sweden | |
| By: Martin Skjöldebrand | |
| Winter is here. Snow is falling and it is dark and cold outside. This time a year it is nice to light a fire, put a CD in the player and have something warm to drink. The number one winter drink in Sweden is Glögg, a spicy hot wine drink. | |
| The making of spiced, hot, wine goes back a long time. One of the earliest examples must be "A strangely spiced wine" found in Apicius' "De Re Coquinaria" from ca 3-400 AD. Later on, in medieval times, a spiced wine, "Hypocras" (which took its name from the Greek father of medicine, hippokrates) was well known. In Cindy Renfrews excellent book "A Sip Through Time" there are several recipes for this, the oldest Hypocras recipe is dated to ca 1375. During the 16th and 17th centuries in Sweden there where several recipes for "Hypokras" or "Ipokras" which took its name from the Greek father of medicine Hippokrates. Hypocras was supposed to have healing qualities not found in other drinks. According to the Royal Society in London, England, in 1662 Hippokras should contain sherry, white wine, allspice, nutmeg, cloves and sugar.
In 19th century continental Europe a spicy hot wine was known as "Glühwein", while the french enjoyed another type warm wine drink - Vin Chaud. It is from the former drink that the Swedish name Glögg originates. In the period cookery books I have had at my disposal (two abridged - Warg, Hagdahl, three complete - Een lijten kockebook, Eregin, Björklund) I have only found one recipe for glögg despite the fact that one of them (Eregin 1733) says that there should be an appendix with wine recipes. Traditional SpicingWhat distinguishes Glögg from Hippokras is (apart from the different spicing) the way to make it. The old type of "glögg" was rather low in alcohol content and in some recipes the spicing is rather limited. Gustava Björklund's recipe from 1847 is an example. Continental "glühwein" is still made in a similar fashion, although sugar is often substituted for honey and some nutmeg and orange or lemon peels might be added. The Swedish glögg gradually became stronger. One reason might have been the discovery that caramelized sugar would improve the taste. The process was as follows:
Like Hypocras, glögg can be based on both red wine as well as (and unlike Hypocras) beer and aquavit. Milk is never among the ingredients as it may be in the forebear. In recipes based on beer and aquavit, there is usually also some strong wine, Madeira or Port for example). Strong wines, may be included in wine based recipes to add more flavour. There are also a few non-alcoholic recipes around. These are often based on black currant juice and (probably) quite recent additions to the familial of glögg recipes. Modern PreparationWhile the complicated way to include sugar is not used today, most recipes call for sugar to be among the ingredients. A plausible reason for abandoning the former practice is given as "Since the vaporization and subsequent burning roughly halves the alcohol content", another that it was, well, a bit complicated. However, the practice has survived in modern(-ised) recipes which instruct one to melt sugar separately. That Glögg is popular is evident from the fact that over 3 million litres of the drink is sold in liquor stores around Christmas. (Searching for it on AltaVista produced 150 hits). Glögg, as sold today have a lower alcohol content and a somewhat different spicing than the last century "glühwein". Many families have their own recipes for Glögg, however and it is a popular treat to make at winter parties around the country. RecipesHave your servants prepare the glögg while you take a long walk through the snow, in temperatures well below freezing (-20 centigrade is about right). Make sure you are really cold and that you long intensely for warmth and comfort. Meanwhile, the servants should heat the glögg until it is real hot but not boiling. Then pour it in small glasses or cups containing a few almonds and raisins, and provide a teaspoon for eating the almonds & raisins. (William de Corbie) On the site you will find all sorts of spiced wines, from Hypocras to Glögg (including Gluhwein). | |
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